China has some extraordinary water routes. The Yangtze gorges, the Li River karst scenery, the Buddhist island of Putuoshan approached by ferry across a choppy grey sea — these journeys exist outside what trains and airports can provide. Water transport in China ranges from practical (Hong Kong-Macau hydrofoils) to genuinely among the most beautiful journeys in the world (Li River dawn cruise). Here’s what’s worth doing and how to book it.
Table of contents
Open Table of contents
Yangtze River — The Three Gorges Section
The classic Yangtze cruise runs from Chongqing downstream to Yichang, covering the Three Gorges section: Qutang Gorge, Wu Gorge, and Xiling Gorge. This is the stretch backed up behind the Three Gorges Dam — the scenery of steep limestone cliffs rising vertically from the river is genuinely impressive, though the water level post-dam is higher than it was historically, which has changed (some say diminished) the drama of the gorges.
Cruise options:
- 4-star and 5-star cruise ships: 3–4 day upstream journey (Yichang to Chongqing) or 2–3 days downstream. Prices: ¥2,500–¥8,000 per person depending on cabin class and ship quality. These include shore excursions to the Lesser Three Gorges (Shennong Stream) and the dam site.
- Budget passenger ferry (游轮): Much cheaper (¥300–¥800 per person) but no organized excursions and basic facilities. Still sees the same scenery.
Downstream (Chongqing to Yichang) takes 2–3 days; upstream takes 3–4 days. Downstream is faster because of river current; upstream allows more time at each stop.
Booking: Cruise companies include Victoria Cruises, Century Cruises, and Yangtze Gold Cruises. Book through Trip.com (has English booking for most major cruises) or via their international websites. Prices vary dramatically by season — peak season (May-June, September-October) books early.
Best time: April-May and September-October for pleasant temperatures and fuller water levels. July-August is hot and busy.
Li River — Guilin to Yangshuo
This is one of China’s signature landscapes. The Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo passes through 83 km of karst limestone scenery — the pointy mountains you’ve seen on Chinese banknotes and paintings are real, they’re just arranged like this along both banks of this specific river.
The cruise: State-run passenger cruise boats depart from the Zhujiang Pier (Guilin) and arrive at Yangshuo Xijie (West Street) dock. Journey time: 4.5–5 hours downstream. Cost: ¥210–¥310 per person depending on boat class (¥210 for lower deck without AC, ¥310 for upper deck with AC, both including lunch).
Booking: Buy at the pier ticket office in Guilin (arrive early, boats fill up), via major Chinese travel platforms, or through your hotel. Boats depart around 9am and arrive in Yangshuo early afternoon.
Bamboo raft option: More dramatic and more intimate are the bamboo raft trips on quieter sections of the river, particularly the Yulong River near Yangshuo. These are shorter (1–3 hours), run by local operators, and go through some of the most photographed sections. Cost: ¥120–¥200 for the raft. Book locally in Yangshuo.
Putuoshan — The Buddhist Island Ferry
Putuoshan is one of China’s four sacred Buddhist mountains, but unlike the others (Wutaishan, Emeishan, Jiuhuashan), it’s an island off the coast of Zhejiang province. The ferry approach makes arriving feel suitably momentous — you’re approaching on water, the island’s pagodas appearing through sea mist.
Ferry routes:
- From Luchaogang terminal (near Shanghai): Regular ferries and fast ferries. The fast ferry takes about 2 hours; regular ferry takes 3.5 hours. Fare: ¥80–¥150 depending on ferry type and class.
- From Ningbo: Day cruises and regular services. Faster overall journey from the south.
Booking: Buy at the terminal ticket offices or through Trip.com. On busy holiday weekends, ferries fill up — book in advance.
Practical note: Putuoshan is small — all temples and accommodation are walkable or accessible by the island’s own minibuses. The island doesn’t allow private cars.
Hong Kong to Macau and Zhuhai Ferries
With the opening of the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge (opened 2018), ferries have become less central than they once were, but they remain relevant.
TurboJet and Cotai Water Jet: High-speed ferries between Hong Kong (departure from the Outer Harbour Ferry Terminal in Sheung Wan or Tsim Sha Tsui/Kowloon Pier) and Macau Outer Harbour or Taipa Ferry Terminal. Journey: 60 minutes. Frequency: Roughly every 30–45 minutes during the day, hourly at night. Fare: HK$168–¥230 depending on time (premium pricing on evenings and weekends).
Booking: Online (cotaiwaterjet.com, turbojet.com.hk), at the ferry terminal, or through the Macau ferry booking app. Advance booking recommended on weekends and holidays.
Zhuhai direct ferries: Also available from Hong Kong Airport’s ferry terminal — useful if you’re flying into HK and want to connect directly to Zhuhai or Macau without entering Hong Kong itself.
Hainan Island Ferries
Hainan Island is large enough to fly to (most visitors fly to Sanya or Haikou), but for those wanting a more unusual entry, ferries operate from Zhanjiang and Hai’an on the mainland to Haikou. These are car ferries (you can bring vehicles) rather than passenger cruises. Journey: about 2–3 hours. The ferry crossing is perfectly functional if you’re self-driving or taking your own vehicle.
Within Hainan, small ferries connect the main island to nearby islands including Wuzhizhou Island near Sanya (a popular snorkeling and beach island, ¥80 ferry from Sanya Bay).
Practical Tips for All Water Routes
Motion sickness: The Yangtze can be rough in strong weather; the sea crossing to Putuoshan can be choppy. Bring seasickness medication if you’re prone.
Overnight boats: Both the Yangtze cruise and some ferry routes can involve overnight accommodation. Quality ranges from comfortable cruise cabins to basic overnight passenger ferries with dormitory bunks. Set expectations accordingly.
Weather delays: Sea ferries to islands (Putuoshan, Macau in bad weather) can be cancelled or delayed for typhoons or heavy weather. Have a flexible schedule.