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The Three Gorges Context
The “Three Gorges” that give the famous dam its name are:
- Qutang Gorge (瞿塘峡): Shortest but most dramatic, near Fengjie
- Wu Gorge (巫峡): The longest and most mysterious, passing Wushan
- Xiling Gorge (西陵峡): The most technically complex, where the dam is located
The Three Gorges Dam completed filling in 2012, raising the water level by 80+ meters and submerging hundreds of towns and archaeological sites. This fundamentally changed the river journey. Some of the drama of the original gorges (which travelers like Isabella Bird described as among the most formidable river scenery in the world) has been somewhat reduced by the raised water levels. But the Wu Gorge — which Wushan straddles — remains spectacular because the peaks are so high (up to 1,200m above the river) that the water level change makes relatively little visual difference.
The Lesser Three Gorges (小三峡): Daning River Boat Trip
What It Is
The Lesser Three Gorges refers to the section of the Daning River approximately 50–60km upstream from its junction with the Yangtze at Wushan. Three distinct gorges with different characters: Longmen Gorge (龙门峡), Bawu Gorge (巴雾峡), and Dicui Gorge (滴翠峡).
These are narrower and more intimate than the main Yangtze gorges — in some places the boat almost touches the cliffs on both sides, and the rock walls above are covered in hanging ferns and waterfalls. The scenery is extraordinary.
Boat Options
Option 1: Full-day tour boat (官方游览船) Departs Wushan New Town dock each morning (approximately 8:30am). Returns evening. Includes stops for foot exploration of specific sections and an optional extension into the “Lesser Lesser Three Gorges” (小小三峡) on bamboo boats.
- Price: ¥180–220/person (includes ferry boat + bamboo boat extension)
- Recommended: Yes — the bamboo boat section is one of the most memorable parts
Option 2: Include in a Yangtze River Cruise Most Yangtze River cruises (either up or downriver) include a half-day or full-day excursion to the Lesser Three Gorges as part of the Wushan stop. If you’re on a cruise, this is usually the highlight.
Option 3: Private boat charter Groups can charter private speedboats for a more flexible version of the trip. More expensive but faster — ¥800–1,200 for a private boat holding 4–6 people.
What to Expect on the Boat
The river trip starts calmly on the Daning River below the gorge entrance, then narrows dramatically as you enter Longmen Gorge. The first thing you notice is the light — the cliffs are so high that the sky becomes a narrow strip above you, and the air feels cooler and almost underwater in quality.
Ancient cliff coffins (悬棺, hanging coffins) are visible in crevices high on the cliffs — these date back to the Ba people, predecessors to the Chongqing/Sichuan cultures, who suspended wooden coffin boxes in cliff faces up to 2,000 years ago. The Ba people believed the closer to heaven, the better — and at these heights, the sentiment is comprehensible.
Waterfalls cascade from overhanging vegetation. Monkeys have been reintroduced to some sections and are occasionally visible. The boat docks at the gorge midpoint for a shore walk through one of the narrowest sections.
The bamboo boat extension takes you into narrower tributary streams where the main boat can’t go — these small open boats pole through near-silent passages between moss-covered walls. It’s extraordinary.
Wushan New Town
The rebuilt Wushan New Town (巫山新城) is a fascinating example of post-dam reconstruction. The entire old town was submerged; what you see today was built on the hillside from scratch in the early 2000s. The architecture is standardized Chinese construction, but the setting — stacked up dramatic hillsides above the river — is unique.
Things to do in Wushan Town:
- Walk the cliff-side viewing promenade (江边步道) along the Yangtze for views of Wu Gorge entrance
- Visit the small Wushan Museum for context on the Three Gorges flooding and relocation
- The evening food market (夜市) around Gongnong Road runs from 6pm and serves local Chongqing-style street food
Wushan Peach Blossoms: The mountains around Wushan are covered in wild peach trees that bloom March–April. The “Wushan Red Leaf” (巫山红叶) autumn foliage season (October–November) is also famous in the region — cliff-side trees turning brilliant red against the river.
Fengjie and Qutang Gorge
An hour by fast boat (¥80) or bus (¥25, 1 hour) upriver from Wushan, Fengjie (奉节) gives access to Qutang Gorge — the shortest (8km) and most dramatic of the three gorges. The cliff faces here are almost vertical and reach heights of 1,200m on both sides, creating a slot canyon effect on the river. The Baidi City (白帝城, White Emperor City) perches at the gorge entrance and is one of China’s most historically charged sites — both the location of famous Tang Dynasty poems and the deathbed location of the Three Kingdoms hero Liu Bei.
Baidi City entry: ¥120 (includes boat to island). Open 8am–6pm.
The Qutang Gorge Cliff Plank Trail (瞿塘峡古栈道) is a reconstructed section of the ancient cliff path that allowed people to walk the gorge before modern transport. You can hike a section of this today — about 1km of vertiginous boardwalk bolted to the cliff face above the river.
Getting to Wushan
By Fast Boat on the Yangtze
From Chongqing Chaotianmen terminal: Hydrofoil fast boats run daily downstream to Wushan. Journey time approximately 3–4 hours, ¥150–200. Spectacular scenery the entire way.
From Yichang (downstream): Fast boats upstream, about 3 hours, ¥150. Yichang is the downstream end of the Three Gorges cruise.
By High-Speed Train
A new high-speed rail line connects Chongqing and Wanzhou (万州), and from Wanzhou boats and buses continue to Wushan. Journey time Chongqing to Wushan: approximately 2–2.5 hours total.
By Long-Distance Bus
From Chongqing North Bus Terminal: Direct buses to Wushan, 3.5–4 hours, ¥80–110.
As Part of a Yangtze River Cruise
The most popular way to experience this area. Yangtze cruises run between Chongqing and Yichang (2–3 nights) stopping at Wushan for the Lesser Three Gorges excursion. Cruise prices vary enormously (¥600–8,000+ per person) depending on the ship class and season.
Accommodation in Wushan
Budget guesthouses: Several near the boat docks, ¥80–150/night. Basic but adequate.
Mid-range hotels: Wushan International Hotel and similar, ¥200–350/night. Most travelers staying overnight stay here.
Book ahead: If visiting during Peach Blossom season (mid-March to early April) or Red Leaf season (late October), accommodation books up and prices surge.
Food in Wushan
Wushan food is a variation on Chongqing cuisine — spicy, bold, and cheap.
Wushan grilled fish (巫山烤鱼): The town’s signature dish — whole fish split and grilled over charcoal, then braised in a spicy sauce with tomatoes and vegetables. This dish has become popular across China but the original Wushan version is different. Most good restaurants along the river embankment serve it: ¥60–120 depending on fish size.
Spicy tofu (麻辣豆腐): Exceptionally good here, much spicier than Sichuan versions.
Fresh river fish: Wushan sits on two rivers and fresh fish is excellent. Ask for seasonal river fish (时令鱼) at any restaurant.
Practical Information
Best months: March–April (peach blossoms, spring river high), October–November (red leaves, clearest autumn skies).
July–August: Hot and humid (35°C+), but the Lesser Three Gorges boat trip is particularly vivid in summer green.
Note on boat schedules: Lesser Three Gorges boats may reduce frequency in winter. Confirm departure times when booking accommodation.
Day trip from Chongqing?: Technically possible (fast boat + Lesser Three Gorges + return) but very long and exhausting. Better to stay at least one night.
Wushan is the authentic Three Gorges experience that most cruise passengers get a brief taste of. Coming independently, staying for 2 nights, and doing the boat trip properly reveals a place where river culture, dramatic geography, and the real story of the Three Gorges project come together in a way that no cruise itinerary can provide.