Table of contents
Open Table of contents
- Understanding Altitude Sickness
- China’s High-Altitude Destinations
- Acclimatisation: The Gold Standard
- Medications and Supplements
- Symptoms: What to Watch For
- When to Descend: Emergency Protocols
- Tibet-Specific Advice
- Qinghai and Western Sichuan
- Yunnan and Other Mountain Regions
- Food, Drink and Hydration at Altitude
- Sleep at High Altitude
- Fitness and Altitude
- Children and Altitude
- Packing for High-Altitude Travel
- Insurance and Medical Facilities
Understanding Altitude Sickness
Altitude sickness — properly called Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) — is not a joke. I learned this the hard way on my first trip to Lhasa in 2019. I flew in from Chengdu, felt fine for the first two hours, then spent the next 36 hours in my hotel room wondering if I’d made a terrible mistake. The headache was unlike anything I’d experienced, and the nausea was relentless. Eventually I recovered, but I wish I’d taken the acclimatisation process more seriously.
Here’s the science in plain terms: above 2,500 metres (8,200 feet), the air contains less oxygen per breath. Your body needs time to adapt to this reduced oxygen availability. When you ascend faster than your body can adjust, altitude sickness sets in. It can affect anyone — fitness level, age, and previous experience don’t reliably predict who gets it.
Key altitude thresholds:
- 1,500-2,500m: Minimal effects for most people. You might feel slightly short of breath during exercise
- 2,500-3,500m: AMS becomes a real possibility. This covers Lhasa (3,650m), Xining (2,275m), and many Chinese mountain destinations
- 3,500-5,500m: Serious altitude territory. AMS is common, and HAPE/HACE (see below) become risks. This includes Everest Base Camp (5,200m) and much of western Tibet
- Above 5,500m: Extreme altitude. Only for experienced mountaineers with proper support
China’s High-Altitude Destinations
China has some of the world’s most spectacular high-altitude destinations. Here are the major ones with their elevations:
Tibet Autonomous Region
| Destination | Elevation | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|
| Lhasa | 3,650m | Moderate |
| Shigatse | 3,840m | Moderate-High |
| Gyantse | 3,977m | Moderate-High |
| Everest Base Camp (Tibet side) | 5,200m | Very High |
| Mount Kailash | 4,600-5,600m | Extreme |
| Namtso Lake | 4,718m | High |
| Yamdrok Lake | 4,441m | High |
Qinghai Province
| Destination | Elevation | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|
| Xining | 2,275m | Low-Moderate |
| Qinghai Lake | 3,200m | Moderate |
| Golmud | 2,809m | Moderate |
| Yushu | 3,700m | Moderate-High |
| Chaka Salt Lake | 3,100m | Moderate |
Western Sichuan
| Destination | Elevation | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|
| Daocheng Yading | 3,900-4,600m | High |
| Jiuzhaigou | 2,000-3,100m | Low-Moderate |
| Tagong | 3,700m | Moderate-High |
| Seda (Larung Gar) | 4,000m | High |
| Mount Siguniang | 3,200-5,000m | High |
| Xinduqiao | 3,300m | Moderate |
Yunnan Province
| Destination | Elevation | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|
| Lijiang | 2,400m | Low-Moderate |
| Shangri-La (Zhongdian) | 3,300m | Moderate |
| Tiger Leaping Gorge | 1,800-2,600m | Low-Moderate |
| Meili Snow Mountain | 3,400-4,000m | Moderate-High |
| Deqin | 3,400m | Moderate-High |
Other Regions
| Destination | Elevation | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|
| Mount Hua (Shaanxi) | 2,155m (peak) | Low |
| Huangshan (Anhui) | 1,864m | Very Low |
| Changbai Mountain (Jilin) | 2,691m | Low-Moderate |
Acclimatisation: The Gold Standard
There is no substitute for gradual acclimatisation. No pill, no shortcut, no hack. Your body needs time to produce more red blood cells and adjust to lower oxygen levels. Here’s how to do it properly:
The Golden Rule
Above 2,500m, do not ascend more than 300-500m per day for sleeping elevation. For every 1,000m of ascent, plan a rest day.
Practical Acclimatisation Schedules
For Lhasa (3,650m):
Day 1: Arrive in Lhasa. Rest. Walk slowly. Drink water. Sleep. Day 2: Light sightseeing. Potala Palace is fine if you take it slowly. No climbing stairs quickly. Day 3: Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Street. Still taking it easy. Day 4: Day trip to Sera Monastery or Norbulingka. You should be feeling normal by now. Day 5+: Ready for further excursions.
For Shangri-La via Lijiang (recommended route):
Day 1-2: Kunming (1,892m) — no altitude concerns Day 3-4: Lijiang (2,400m) — mild adjustment begins Day 5-6: Tiger Leaping Gorge (1,800-2,600m) — trek at moderate altitude Day 7+: Shangri-La (3,300m) — well acclimatised
For Daocheng Yading (3,900m+):
This is where people get into trouble. The airport at Daocheng is at 4,411m — one of the highest civilian airports in the world. Flying in directly is a terrible idea for most people.
Better approach:
- Spend 2-3 days in Chengdu (500m)
- Drive to Kangding (2,560m) — overnight
- Drive to Xinduqiao (3,300m) — overnight
- Drive to Daocheng (3,900m) — 2 nights
- Enter Yading Nature Reserve
This overland route from Chengdu takes 3-4 days but dramatically reduces AMS risk.
What Acclimatisation Feels Like
When you’re properly acclimatising, you might experience:
- Slight shortness of breath when walking uphill (normal)
- Mild headache that improves with rest and hydration (normal)
- Slightly elevated heart rate (normal)
- Difficulty sleeping for the first few nights (normal)
These symptoms should improve each day. If they worsen, you may be developing AMS (see Symptoms section below).
Medications and Supplements
Acetazolamide (Diamox)
The most widely recommended medication for altitude sickness prevention. It works by making your blood more acidic, which stimulates deeper breathing and increases oxygen intake.
Dosage: 125-250mg twice daily, starting 24 hours before ascent and continuing for 2-3 days at target altitude.
Effectiveness: Reduces AMS incidence by approximately 50-75%.
Side effects: Tingling in fingers and toes (very common), increased urination, carbonated drinks tasting flat, occasional nausea.
Availability in China: Available at pharmacies with a prescription. International hospitals can prescribe it. Some travellers bring it from home. Cost: ¥30-60 ($4-8) for 20 tablets at Chinese pharmacies.
Important: Sulfa-allergic individuals should not take Diamox. Consult your doctor before use.
Dexamethasone
A steroid medication used to treat (not prevent) severe AMS, HAPE, and HACE. This is an emergency medication, not a preventive one.
Dosage: 8mg initially, then 4mg every 6 hours. Only use while descending or awaiting evacuation.
Important: This should only be used by people trained in its application or under medical guidance. It masks symptoms without addressing the underlying problem, which can be dangerous if you continue ascending.
Rhodiola (红景天)
A traditional Tibetan herb that many Chinese travellers swear by. The scientific evidence is mixed — some studies show mild benefits, others show no significant effect beyond placebo.
Availability: Sold in every pharmacy in Tibet and Qinghai. Also available as a tea, tincture, or capsule. ¥20-50 ($2.80-7) per box.
My take: It probably won’t hurt, and it might help. But don’t rely on it as your primary prevention strategy. I’ve taken it and still gotten AMS.
Ginkgo Biloba
Some studies suggest Ginkgo may help with altitude adaptation, though evidence is inconsistent. Available in Chinese pharmacies for ¥30-60 ($4-8) per bottle.
Ibuprofen
Useful for altitude-related headaches. Standard dose: 400mg every 6-8 hours. Not a preventive, but makes symptoms more manageable. ¥10-15 ($1.40-2.10) for a bottle of 20 tablets.
Symptoms: What to Watch For
Mild AMS (Common, Manageable)
- Headache (the most universal symptom)
- Nausea or loss of appetite
- Dizziness or light-headedness
- Difficulty sleeping
- Shortness of breath with mild exertion
What to do: Rest, hydrate, take ibuprofen for headache. Do not ascend further until symptoms resolve. Most mild AMS resolves within 24-48 hours at the same altitude.
Moderate AMS (Concerning)
- Severe headache that doesn’t respond to painkillers
- Persistent nausea and vomiting
- Marked fatigue and weakness
- Difficulty walking (ataxia)
What to do: Stop ascending immediately. Consider descending 500-1,000m. Start Diamox if not already taking it. If symptoms don’t improve within 24 hours, descend further.
Severe AMS / HAPE / HACE (Medical Emergency)
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE):
- Fluid in the lungs
- Persistent cough, sometimes with pink frothy sputum
- Severe shortness of breath at rest
- Chest tightness or congestion
- Blue-tinged lips or fingertips
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE):
- Brain swelling
- Confusion, disorientation, irrational behaviour
- Severe ataxia (cannot walk a straight line)
- Inability to care for yourself
What to do: DESCEND IMMEDIATELY. This is a life-threatening emergency. Descend at least 1,000m. Administer oxygen if available (many Tibetan hotels have canisters). Take dexamethasone if trained to do so. Seek medical attention.
The heel-to-toe test: Walk a straight line placing heel to toe. If you cannot do this, you may have HACE and must descend immediately.
When to Descend: Emergency Protocols
The mountaineering mantra applies: “There are three treatments for altitude sickness — descent, descent, and descent.”
Decision Framework
- Mild symptoms at rest? → Rest day, hydrate, monitor
- Mild symptoms getting worse? → Do not ascend. Rest another day or descend 300-500m
- Moderate symptoms? → Descend 500-1,000m immediately
- Any sign of HAPE or HACE? → Descend as far as possible, as fast as possible. This is a medical emergency
Emergency Oxygen
Many hotels in Lhasa and other high-altitude destinations keep oxygen canisters. A canister costs ¥30-80 ($4-11) and provides temporary relief. However, oxygen is a treatment, not a cure — you still need to descend if symptoms are severe.
Some luxury hotels in Lhasa have central oxygen systems that can be piped into rooms. The St. Regis Lhasa and Shangri-La Lhasa both offer this. ¥1,500-3,000/night ($210-420).
Tibet-Specific Advice
Getting to Lhasa
By train (recommended for acclimatisation): The Qinghai-Tibet Railway from Xining to Lhasa takes 20-22 hours. The highest point is Tanggula Pass at 5,072m. Oxygen is supplied in the carriages. This gradual ascent gives your body time to adjust.
A soft sleeper ticket from Xining to Lhasa costs ¥781 ($109). Book well in advance — tickets sell out quickly, especially in summer.
By air (faster but riskier): Flights from Chengdu, Chongqing, or Xi’an take 2-3 hours. You gain altitude rapidly, and your body has no time to adjust. Many travellers experience AMS symptoms within hours of landing.
A Chengdu-Lhasa flight costs ¥1,200-2,500 ($168-350) depending on season.
The Tibet Travel Permit
Foreign travellers need a Tibet Travel Permit, obtainable only through a licensed travel agency. Cost: typically included in tour packages. Solo travel is not permitted in Tibet — you must be part of an organised tour, though “tour” can mean just you and a guide.
Recommended Tibet Acclimatisation Route
- Fly to Xining (2,275m) — spend 2 nights
- Take the train to Lhasa (3,650m) — the gradual ascent helps
- Spend 3 nights in Lhasa before venturing further
- Drive to Shigatse or Gyantse — spend 2 nights
- Day trip to Namtso or Yamdrok (return to lower elevation to sleep)
Qinghai and Western Sichuan
Qinghai Lake Circuit
Xining → Qinghai Lake (3,200m) → Chaka Salt Lake (3,100m) → Qilian → Xining. This 3-4 day loop is popular and relatively manageable altitude-wise. The highest point is around 3,800m on the pass.
A 3-day Qinghai Lake tour costs ¥1,500-2,500 ($210-350) including transport, accommodation, and guide.
Western Sichuan Adventures
The G318 National Highway from Chengdu to Lhasa is one of the world’s great road trips, but it crosses multiple high passes:
- Zheduo Pass: 4,298m
- Jianziwan Pass: 4,658m
- Kazila Pass: 4,718m
If driving this route, plan for 7-10 days with proper acclimatisation stops. A 7-day G318 tour costs ¥3,000-5,000 ($420-700).
Yunnan and Other Mountain Regions
Shangri-La (3,300m)
Most travellers arrive via Lijiang (2,400m), which provides decent acclimatisation. If flying directly from Kunming (1,892m) or lower, take it easy on day one.
Shangri-La’s Songzanlin Monastery involves climbing many steps — do this after 2 days of acclimatisation, not on arrival day.
Tiger Leaping Gorge
The high trail reaches about 2,600m — generally fine for most people. The starting point at Qiaotou is only 1,800m. This is a good introduction to moderate altitude trekking.
Food, Drink and Hydration at Altitude
Hydration
Dehydration worsens altitude sickness. At high altitude, you lose more water through respiration and urination. Aim for 3-4 litres of water per day.
Pro tip: Your urine should be pale yellow. If it’s dark, you’re not drinking enough.
Bottled water is ¥2-5 ($0.28-0.70) per bottle everywhere in China. At high-altitude destinations, it might be ¥5-10 ($0.70-1.40) due to transport costs.
What to Eat
- Carbohydrates are easier to digest at altitude and provide quick energy. Rice, noodles, and bread are good choices
- Avoid heavy, fatty meals — they’re harder to digest in low-oxygen environments
- Eat smaller, more frequent meals rather than large ones
- Avoid alcohol — it depresses respiration and worsens dehydration. Save the baijiu for when you’re back at low altitude
Tibetan Butter Tea
Traditional Tibetan butter tea (酥油茶) is salty, buttery, and surprisingly helpful at altitude. The fat provides calories, the salt helps with hydration, and the tea has mild stimulant effects. It’s an acquired taste, but locals drink it for good reason. Available free at most Tibetan guesthouses, or ¥5-10 ($0.70-1.40) per pot.
Sleep at High Altitude
Sleep disturbance is one of the most common altitude complaints. You may experience:
- Difficulty falling asleep
- Waking frequently
- Periodic breathing (Cheyne-Stokes respiration) — your breathing pauses and then resumes with a gasp
- Vivid, unusual dreams
Tips for Better Sleep
- Sleep with your head slightly elevated — use extra pillows
- Take Diamox — it improves sleep quality at altitude by reducing periodic breathing
- Use hotel oxygen if available — even 1-2 litres per minute helps
- Avoid sleeping pills — they depress respiration and can be dangerous at altitude
- Stay warm — cold worsens altitude symptoms. Use extra blankets
Fitness and Altitude
Here’s an uncomfortable truth: being very fit does not protect you from altitude sickness. In fact, some studies suggest that very fit people may be at slightly higher risk because their bodies are more efficient at using oxygen — when less oxygen is available, they notice it more.
What fitness does help with is recovery at altitude. If you’re reasonably fit, you’ll bounce back from mild AMS faster and be able to enjoy activities once acclimatised.
My advice: Don’t start a new fitness regime before a high-altitude trip. Maintain your normal exercise routine. The most important thing is gradual ascent, not peak fitness.
Children and Altitude
Children can travel to high altitude, but with extra caution:
- Children under 2 years should not go above 4,000m
- Children can’t always communicate their symptoms — watch for unusual tiredness, irritability, or loss of appetite
- The acclimatisation schedule should be even more gradual
- Carry children in carriers rather than having them walk at altitude (less exertion)
- Always have a descent plan ready
Packing for High-Altitude Travel
Medical Kit
- Acetazolamide (Diamox) — prescribed by your doctor
- Ibuprofen 400mg tablets
- Anti-nausea medication (ondansetron or promethazine)
- Oral rehydration salts
- Thermometer
- Pulse oximeter (finger clip, ¥50-100 / $7-14 on JD.com) — useful for monitoring blood oxygen
- Portable oxygen canister (buy in Lhasa or Xining, ¥30-80 / $4-11)
Clothing
Temperatures at altitude vary dramatically:
- Lhasa summer day: 22°C, night: 9°C
- Lhasa winter day: 8°C, night: -10°C
- Everest Base Camp: even in summer, nights are -5°C to -10°C
Layering is essential:
- Base layer: merino wool or synthetic wicking fabric
- Mid layer: fleece or down jacket
- Outer layer: windproof and waterproof shell
- Warm hat, gloves, and scarf
- UV-protective sunglasses (UV intensity increases 4% per 300m of altitude)
- SPF50+ sunscreen (sunburn risk is extreme at altitude)
Insurance and Medical Facilities
Travel Insurance
Standard travel insurance often excludes high-altitude activities above 3,000m or 4,000m. Check your policy carefully. You need coverage that includes:
- Altitude sickness treatment
- Emergency evacuation (helicopter rescue from remote areas can cost $10,000-50,000)
- Repatriation
World Nomads, Global Rescue, and IMG all offer altitude-inclusive policies. Budget $200-400 for comprehensive coverage.
Medical Facilities at Altitude
- Lhasa: People’s Hospital of Tibet Autonomous Region has a dedicated altitude sickness unit. English-speaking doctors available but not guaranteed
- Xining: Qinghai Provincial Hospital — well-equipped for altitude-related conditions
- Shangri-La: Diqing People’s Hospital — basic but functional
- Remote areas: Medical facilities are basic. Evacuation to Lhasa or Xining may be necessary
Pro tip: Register with your country’s embassy or consulate before travelling to Tibet. In an emergency, they can assist with communication and evacuation coordination.
Altitude sickness is serious but manageable. The vast majority of travellers who follow proper acclimatisation protocols, stay hydrated, and respect the mountain have safe and incredible experiences at China’s high-altitude destinations. Don’t let fear stop you — just let preparation guide you. The view from 4,000 metres is worth every step of the journey.