The Li River (漓江, Lí Jiāng) cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo is one of China’s most iconic experiences — 83 kilometres of slow river travel through a landscape of karst limestone peaks, bamboo groves, water buffalo in rice paddies, and fishing villages. The image on the back of China’s 20 yuan note is from this river. Artists have painted these mountains for a thousand years.
The cruise takes 4–5 hours. It’s a significant time investment, and the genuine question to ask yourself is whether you’re someone who will appreciate four hours of steady scenery contemplation, or whether you’d be frustrated by the time. For the right traveller, it’s one of the best days possible in China.
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The Cruise Options
Official cruise boats (大型游船): Large multi-deck tourist vessels operated by the state tourism company. These are the ‘proper’ cruise boats that start from Zhujiang Wharf (竹江码头, not central Guilin — you need transport there). Tickets ¥210–310 depending on seat class. Lunch included.
These are reliable, comfortable, and safe. The boats are big enough to see from both sides. The main drawback is that when 20 of these boats are going at the same time, it’s a floating tourist convoy rather than a peaceful river journey.
Small wooden boats (竹筏/木船): More atmospheric. Depart from different points and offer a more intimate experience. Slower. Usually ¥150–200. Less reliable schedule. The classic image of the bamboo raft is this type.
Bamboo rafting on specific sections: The section between Xingping (兴坪) and Yangdi (杨堤) is the most scenic part of the river — this is where the 20-yuan note scene is located. Bamboo raft trips covering just this section are available for ¥100–150 and last 2–3 hours. A practical option if the full day’s cruise is too long.
The Xingping Option
Many experienced travellers skip the Guilin-start cruise and instead:
- Take a bus or taxi from Guilin to Xingping (兴坪) village directly — 1.5 hours
- Walk to the Old Fishing Village viewpoint above Xingping
- Take a bamboo raft from Xingping downstream past the 20-yuan note scene
- Continue to Yangshuo
This gives you the best scenery, less time in the tourist boat convoy, and more time at the best part of the river. Xingping village itself has old Qing Dynasty architecture and is less touristy than Yangshuo.
Key Sights Along the Route
The peaks have been named through centuries of contemplative naming by Chinese scholars and poets. The names tell you what you should see if you squint:
Nine Horses Fresco Hill (九马画山): A cliff face where the rock staining supposedly shows nine horses in various poses. Finding all nine is considered lucky (and most people claim to find about three).
Xingping and the 20 Yuan Peak: The most iconic view — the cluster of peaks visible from Old Fishing Village viewpoint above Xingping, reflected in the river bend. The light is best in morning mist, which is also when Chinese art historically depicted this landscape.
Yangdi (杨堤): A riverside village roughly two-thirds of the way from Guilin. The scenery here is excellent and it’s a common alternative starting point.
The final approach to Yangshuo: The river bends past the Yangshuo town edge and you disembark. The town is immediately accessible.
Yangshuo: Don’t Just Take the Bus Back
Yangshuo (阳朔) has somehow managed to be simultaneously touristy and genuinely appealing. West Street (西街) is the main tourist drag — cafes, bars, souvenir shops — and while it’s commercial, it’s a pleasant evening scene.
Beyond West Street:
- Yulong River (遇龙河): A tributary of the Li River flowing through rice paddies and bamboo groves. Less trafficked than the Li River. Bamboo raft rentals available. Cycling the banks is excellent.
- Moon Hill (月亮山): A limestone peak with a natural arch near the top. Short hike (30–40 minutes) for good views.
- Cycling routes: The roads between Yangshuo and surrounding villages through karst landscape are excellent cycling territory. Rentals widely available from ¥50–100/day.
Staying overnight in Yangshuo is strongly recommended. The evening in the town — sunset light on the peaks, dinner along the river, the local scene settling in after day tourists leave — is a different and better experience than rushing back to Guilin.
Booking the Cruise
Official boats: Can be booked through any Guilin hotel, through Trip.com, or through designated ticketing offices in Guilin. Book 1–2 days ahead in peak season (April–October), more in Golden Week.
Transport to Zhujiang Wharf: The official cruise departs from Zhujiang Wharf, 24km south of central Guilin. Transfer buses from Guilin city are included in the ticket price — they depart from a central collection point. Confirm pickup location and time when booking.
Departure times: Main cruises depart 9:30am–10:30am, arriving in Yangshuo around 2:30–3:30pm.
Return from Yangshuo to Guilin
Regular buses from Yangshuo to Guilin depart from the Yangshuo bus station (near the west end of West Street) approximately every 30 minutes. Journey time 1–1.5 hours, cost ¥30–40. Buses run until around 8pm.
Taxi back: ¥120–150.
High-speed train is not an option — there’s no direct rail link on this route.
Best Time for the Cruise
April–May: The river is at good level after spring rains. Mist in the mornings creates the atmospheric conditions that make the landscape photographs recognisable. Comfortable temperatures. Peak tourist season is building.
September–October: Another good period. Clear days after summer heat, lower humidity. The autumn light is excellent.
Rainy season (June–August): High water levels, possible flooding of lower banks. Can be beautiful in certain light but also more unpredictable.
Winter (November–February): Water levels drop and some sections can be shallow — the large cruise boats may adjust routes or be cancelled on very low-water days. Less atmospheric mist. But dramatically fewer tourists.
Practical Tips
- Sunscreen and hat essential — you’re on the water for 4+ hours. The reflected light is intense.
- Bring snacks and extra water even if the cruise includes lunch — the lunch quality varies and options are limited.
- Bring a rain jacket — river weather can change quickly, and an unexpected shower will soak the outdoor deck areas.
- Motion sickness: The river is slow and calm. Not an issue for most people.
- Cash for Yangshuo: Many small stalls and vendors are cash-only. Have some RMB available.