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Benxi — Northeast China’s Best Autumn Secret
Benxi (本溪) doesn’t feature on many international travel itineraries, which is a shame, because this small city in eastern Liaoning Province has two genuinely extraordinary attractions: a massive underground river cave and some of the finest autumn foliage in all of China. The Benxi Water Cave is one of the longest and most impressive accessible cave systems in the world, and the surrounding mountains turn a fiery red each October that rivals anything in New England or Kyoto.
I visited Benxi in mid-October, specifically for the maple leaves, and I was not prepared for the intensity of the colour. Entire mountainsides were blanketed in red, orange, and gold, with the scale of the landscape making the display far more dramatic than any forest I’d seen before. The combination of Northeast China’s crisp autumn air, the dramatic topography, and the maple colours made this one of the most visually memorable trips I’ve taken in China.
Benxi Water Cave (本溪水洞)
An Underground River Journey
The Benxi Water Cave (本溪水洞) is the city’s premier attraction and one of the most impressive caves in China. The cave system extends for over 5 km, with an underground river flowing through the main passage. About 2.8 km of the river is navigable by boat, making it one of the longest underground boat rides in the world.
The cave was formed over millions of years as water dissolved the limestone bedrock, creating vast chambers and intricate formations. The scale is remarkable — the main passage is 30-50 metres wide and up to 70 metres high in places. Stalactites hang from the ceiling like frozen waterfalls, and the water is so still and clear that the reflections create a mirror effect that doubles the visual impact.
The Boat Ride
The cave experience centres on a 30-minute boat ride along the underground river. The boats are small, electric-powered vessels that carry about 10 passengers. The guide (Chinese-speaking only) points out formations that resemble various objects — the standard Chinese cave-tour tradition — but the real pleasure is simply drifting through this otherworldly space, the silence broken only by the soft splash of water.
Temperature inside the cave: A constant 12°C year-round. Bring a jacket even in summer.
Entrance fee: ¥110 ($15 USD) including the boat ride. Open 8:30 AM — 4:00 PM. Allow 1.5-2 hours.
Tip: The cave entrance area can be crowded with tour groups. Arrive early (before 9:30 AM) or late (after 3:00 PM) for a more peaceful experience.
The Dry Cave
In addition to the water cave, there’s a “dry cave” section with walking paths through decorated chambers. The formations here are particularly fine — some of the stalactites are over 10 metres long. Allow 45 minutes for the dry cave. Included in the entrance fee.
Guanmen Mountain (关门山)
The Maple Leaf Paradise
About 50 km from Benxi city, Guanmen Mountain National Forest Park (关门山国家森林公园) is the region’s most famous autumn foliage destination. The park covers 3,517 hectares of mountainous terrain, with valleys, lakes, and waterfalls framed by millions of maple trees that turn vivid red in October.
The colour change typically begins in late September and peaks around mid-October, though exact timing varies with the weather. At peak colour, the effect is staggering — mountainsides painted in shades of red, orange, and yellow, reflected in the still waters of the park’s small lakes.
Key areas:
- Xiaoguanmen Lake: The most photogenic spot — a small lake surrounded by maples, with a stone bridge and pagoda. Arrive at dawn for misty reflections.
- The Valley Trail: A 3 km walking path through the heart of the maple forest. The canopy overhead turns the path into a tunnel of colour.
- The Summit Viewpoint: A 30-minute climb to a hilltop with panoramic views across the coloured landscape.
Entrance fee: ¥90 ($12 USD) in peak autumn season, ¥60 ($8.30 USD) other times. Allow 4-5 hours.
Getting there: Bus from Benxi long-distance bus station (1 hour, ¥15/$2.10 USD). Taxi ¥80-100 ($11-14 USD) each way.
Best Time for Foliage
- Peak colour: Typically October 10 — 25 (varies by ±1 week depending on weather)
- Early season (late September): Patches of colour amid green — less dramatic but fewer visitors
- Late season (early November): Leaves turning brown and falling — past prime
Pro tip: Midweek visits are significantly less crowded than weekends. During peak colour, weekend visitor numbers can exceed 30,000 per day.
Other Benxi Attractions
Wunü Mountain (五女山)
About 80 km from Benxi city, near Huanren County, Wunü Mountain is a historically significant site — the birthplace of the Goguryeo Kingdom (37 BC — 668 AD), one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. The mountain’s flat summit contains ruins of the ancient Goguryeo capital, and the steep cliffs provided natural fortifications.
The mountain is also scenically beautiful, with dramatic cliff faces and views across the Huanren Reservoir. A cable car takes you most of the way up; the final section involves steep stone steps.
Entrance fee: ¥80 ($11 USD) including cable car. Allow 3-4 hours.
UNESCO note: The Goguryeo capital cities and tombs (including Wunü Mountain) are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tiecha Mountain (铁刹山)
A sacred Taoist mountain about 40 km from Benxi, with temples and shrines dating to the Ming Dynasty. The mountain is associated with the Taoist deity Heilong Xia (Black Dragon Deity) and is an active place of worship. The hiking trails are pleasant and the Taoist architecture is atmospheric. ¥50 ($7 USD).
Dongbei Cuisine — Hearty and Satisfying
Benxi’s food is classic Northeast Chinese — generous portions, bold flavours, and lots of carbs:
Guo Bao Rou (锅包肉): The signature dish of the Northeast — deep-fried pork slices in a sweet and sour sauce. Crispy, tangy, and irresistible. ¥28-38 ($3.90-5.30 USD).
Dongbei Dumplings (东北饺子): Large, plump dumplings filled with pork and cabbage, pork and chive, or pork and mushroom. ¥15-25 ($2.10-3.50 USD) per plate.
Di San Xian (地三鲜): “Three Earthly Treasures” — stir-fried potato, aubergine, and green pepper in a savoury sauce. The vegetarian star of Dongbei cuisine. ¥18-25 ($2.50-3.50 USD).
Suan Cai Bai Rou (酸菜白肉): Pickled cabbage with sliced boiled pork — the ultimate Dongbei comfort food. ¥28-38 ($3.90-5.30 USD).
Benxi Small Pot (本溪小锅): A local hot pot variation with rich broth and fresh vegetables. ¥40-60 ($5.50-8.30 USD) per person.
Recommended Restaurants
Benxi Old Street Food Area: A cluster of restaurants near the railway station serving authentic Dongbei food. Meals ¥25-45 ($3.50-6.20 USD) per person.
Guanmen Mountain Farmhouse Restaurants: Near the park entrance, serving hearty mountain food. ¥30-50 ($4.20-7 USD) per person.
Practical Information
Getting to Benxi
By Train: Benxi Station is on the Shenyang-Dandong railway. From Shenyang: 1 hour by high-speed train, ¥25-40 ($3.50-5.50 USD). From Dandong: 1.5 hours.
By Bus: Frequent buses from Shenyang (2 hours, ¥30/$4.20 USD) and Dalian (4 hours).
By Air: No airport in Benxi. Fly to Shenyang Taoxian Airport and take the train or bus.
Accommodation
Benxi City: Several mid-range hotels from ¥150-300 ($21-42 USD).
Guanmen Mountain Area: Guesthouses and small hotels from ¥100-250 ($14-35 USD). Book well ahead for October foliage season.
Water Cave Area: A few hotels near the cave entrance from ¥120-250 ($17-35 USD).
Best Time to Visit
- October: The prime month — maple foliage at its peak. Book everything in advance.
- Summer (June — August): The water cave is a cool escape from the heat. The mountains are green and pleasant.
- Winter (December — February): The water cave remains accessible and uncrowded. Snow on the mountains is beautiful. The foliage is, obviously, gone.
- Avoid: Chinese National Day holiday (October 1-7) when Guanmen Mountain is mobbed.
Budget Estimate (2 Days)
| Item | Budget (¥) | Mid-Range (¥) |
|---|---|---|
| Train from Shenyang (round trip) | 50 | 80 |
| Accommodation (1 night) | 120 | 280 |
| Meals | 120 | 280 |
| Water Cave entrance | 110 | 110 |
| Guanmen Mountain entrance + transport | 120 | 200 |
| Local transport | 50 | 100 |
| Total | ¥570 ($79 USD) | ¥1,050 ($145 USD) |
Colour Underground and Above
Benxi is a city of contrasts — the silent, grey world of the water cave beneath and the explosive colour of the maple forests above. Both are products of the same geological and climatic forces that have shaped this corner of Northeast China. The limestone that created the cave also created the well-drained soils that support the maple forests. The cold winters that keep the cave formations pristine also trigger the colour change that makes the autumn so spectacular. Everything is connected. Come to Benxi to see both sides of this natural equation, and leave with an appreciation for how the same earth can produce such different kinds of beauty.