Kaifeng (开封) was the most populous city in the world in 1100 AD — the capital of the Northern Song dynasty, home to approximately 1 million people when London had 20,000. The city’s cultural wealth produced the 22-metre-long Zhang Zeduan scroll “Along the River During the Qingming Festival” (清明上河图) — one of the most detailed visual records of pre-modern urban life ever created, depicting 814 humans, 28 boats, 60 animals, and hundreds of buildings.
In 1127, the Jurchen Jin dynasty invaded from the north and captured Kaifeng and the emperor. The Song court fled south to Hangzhou, establishing the Southern Song dynasty and leaving Kaifeng as a memory of lost greatness.
What Survives in Kaifeng
Iron Tower (铁塔): An 11th-century glazed-tile pagoda that has survived repeated Yellow River floods, wars, and earthquakes. The building was famously described as being as strong as iron, giving it its name. The glazed tiles show intricate Buddhist figures and decorative patterns.
Dragon Pavilion Park (龙亭公园): The location of the Song dynasty imperial palace — little survives architecturally, but the arrangement of the ceremonial axis, the twin dragon pavilion, and the lake complex gives a spatial sense of the original layout.
Qingming Shanghe Garden (清明上河园): A recreation of the Zhang Zeduan scroll’s Song dynasty street scene — large theme park that is surprisingly informative, with performers in Song dynasty costume and architectural reconstructions based on the scroll’s imagery. More educational than most historical reconstructions.
Jewish Quarter Memory: Kaifeng had a significant Chinese Jewish community (开封犹太人) from the Song dynasty — the Kaifeng Jews, now largely assimilated into the Han population, maintained a synagogue until the 19th century. The site of the synagogue exists; descendants of the community are researching and reconnecting with this heritage.
Kaifeng Night Market Food Culture
Kaifeng’s night market (鼓楼夜市) is considered the best in Henan province — a dense outdoor food market that operates from sunset to midnight. Henan specialties: steamed dumplings (灌汤包, soup dumplings specific to Kaifeng), spiced donkey meat, five-spice sausage, and the sweet sticky rice cakes.
Combining with Dengfeng Songshan Mountain
Dengfeng (登封) — 80km west of Kaifeng — is the location of Mount Song (嵩山), one of China’s Five Sacred Mountains, and the Shaolin Temple (少林寺).
Shaolin Temple is the birthplace of Chan (Zen) Buddhism in China and the origin point of Chinese martial arts. Founded 495 AD; the current martial arts training tradition developed from the 7th century. The complex includes:
- Original temple buildings (various historical periods)
- The Pagoda Forest (塔林) — 243 burial pagodas of historical abbots
- The 10am and 2pm martial arts demonstrations
- The attached martial arts training schools (thousands of students)
Songshan Mountain hiking: The Song range has five peaks accessible by trail. The peak circuit involves significant climbing; allow a full day.
Getting There
Kaifeng from Zhengzhou: 25 minutes by HSR. Zhengzhou is the main transport hub for Henan.
Kaifeng from Xi’an: 2 hours by HSR via Zhengzhou.
Dengfeng from Zhengzhou: 1.5 hours by bus. No direct HSR.
Also see: Luoyang Peony Festival Guide | Zhengzhou Henan Guide | China Martial Arts Culture Guide